American Apparel - youlikewelike

AMERICAN APPAREL: SUBSTANCE

"We are just trying to push the idea that it is completely possible to pay people fair wages and still make a profit," says American Apparel's Brent Chase. "It's an idea that works and we'd like to see it applied to other industries."

American Apparel is one of the most successful, and controversial, fashion stories of the past ten years. The brand - started in Los Angeles in 1998 by Dov Charney - now operates in over 20 countries.

Charney set out to create a stylish, accessible range of clothing that was most importantly made under ethical conditions.

"American Apparel is a pioneer in this new, ethical retail scene. We have always put as much energy and focus into the quality of our clothes as we do into the well-being of our employees," points out Chase, the company's UK press officer. "Our ethos is to manufacture clothing of a very high quality for men, women and kids. We strive to ensure that every single person coming into contact with American Apparel - from the people actually making the clothes right down to the customer - walks away with a positive feeling about what we're doing."

All design, marketing and production of American Apparel's clothing is completed in a sprawling downtown LA warehouse, where workers apparently earn twice minimum wage, and enjoy the services of on-site masseurs. Not bad for the almost 5,000 strong LA employees of the company.

"I absolutely love my job," Chase enthuses. "I like being a part of this massive, amazing thing which is super fast-paced and constantly progressing. This company has basically taken over my life, and I like it."

All this corporate enthusiasm stems from the passion of the larger-than-life figure of flamboyant CEO Dov Charney. "He is a massive ball of energy," beams Chase. "Wherever he goes he somehow manages to draw attention to himself. Everybody wants to get to know him. He doesn't sit still for very long. I can't and don't ever want to imagine American Apparel without Dov. He drives and pushes everyone for the good of the company and it works well."

Charney has been widely celebrated within the industry, but is also a figure of some controversy. There have been various allegations of sexual harassment [most being unfounded] against him. As well as the somewhat bizarre assertion that Charney conducts job interviews in his underpants.

Another controversial aspect of the brand is the often racy advertising - occasionally featuring Charney himself. Some perceive American Apparel advertising (which often exhibits a raw, amateur sexiness) as being beyond sophisticated taste, which has, arguably, only served to increase its impact.

"Dov is definitely the driving force behind our advertising. Simplicity and honesty is the key," points out Chase. "We aren't trying to force feed our brand or ideals down your throat. The ads are self-explanatory and we don't use typical models. They are either people that work for the company or their friends."

Chase would have it that the success of the brand is down to listening to customers and staff. It is this communication, he claims, which can make people fall in love with American Apparel, the brand.

"Our average customer is the average person. Our clothes are for everyone. They are individuals who like consistency and comfort in what they're getting. Our size range runs from XXXS to XXXL.We pretty much cover the entire spectrum when it comes to sizing and colours."

With seven stores already open in London, as well as shops in Glasgow, Liverpool and Bristol, American Apparel has opened an outlet in Brighton.

"I'm really happy that we chose Brighton, it has worked really well. In the UK specifically, the reception of the brand was overwhelming. If you give people something made to a high standard, they're going to love it. If you explain to them how the company works, they love it even more. What surprises me is how American Apparel is always changing. Our shops are beginning to mature into something that is completely original."

words: Andrew Laughlin